Comfort Food: Exploring simple and traditional Italian-influenced foods in Croatia
By Rebecca Dumais
Why would a renowned Italian restaurant owner travel to Croatia to embark on a food and wine tour in Istria? Well, not only did Tomo Kovacek visit his home country (which also has a deep-rooted Italian history) he and his wife and business partner Glorija, along with Verace’s restaurant manager, Michele Maffei, let their palettes loose to bring some inspirational new menu offerings to Verace, which is located in downtown Oakville.
Verace is co-owned by Kovacek and his business partner, Aleksandra Popovic, a real estate broker with deep roots in the Oakville community. With Serbian heritage and a shared passion for traditional Italian cuisine, Aleksandra brings a unique blend of cultural influence to the partnership, enriching their shared vision for authentic flavours. Located in the vibrant centre of Oakville, Verace is more than just a dining experience—it’s a celebration of authentic Italian flavours, deeply rooted in passion and tradition. Last year, Verace began offering a limited selection of Croatian wines, and Kovacek has plans to include some new vintages in the New Year.
From freshly handcrafted pasta to signature award-winning wood-fired pizzas, every dish reflects the finest ingredients, expert craftsmanship, and a dedication to creating a memorable experience. Verace lets diners indulge in the rich diversity of Italian cuisine, carefully curated to transport you to the lively streets of Italy.
Conversely, Istria, a picturesque peninsula in Croatia, is a gem for food and wine lovers. With its rolling hills, medieval towns, and pristine coastline, Istria’s natural beauty is matched only by its rich culinary heritage. It’s often referred to as the “Tuscany of Croatia,” the region’s food and wine reflect Mediterranean and Central European influences.
Like many coastal locales, land and sea are connected in Istria’s cuisine. The forests of Istria are rich in both black and white truffles, making this region a prime destination to enjoy them. They’re incorporated in many dishes, from homemade pasta like fuži or pljukanci to scrambled eggs, risottos, and desserts.
Another regional item Kovacek and Maffei enjoyed was olive oil, which is among the finest in the world. “It’s a completely different olive oil,” Tomo says. “It’s unique. I like the spiciness.” Only in this area can you find an olive oil with this flavour profile, he notes, and it will be an item Kovacek plans to import into the restaurant. You’ll be able to enjoy it with bread at the table, and also buy to take home.
The peninsula’s long coastline provides an abundance of fresh seafood, including octopus, mussels, and scampi. Grilled, stewed, or served raw, seafood in Istria is always prepared simply, allowing the natural flavours to shine. “Everything was local, and fish and meat definitely prioritized the cuisine in a very traditional way so that you can taste the quality of the food,” he says.
Besides the Istrian prosciutto (cured ham with a distinct flavour, often served as a starter with local cheeses and olives), boškarin, a native Istrian ox, is a dish that you can only enjoy in Croatia (and happens to be one of Kovacek’s favourites).
Istria’s wine has a strong viticultural history that stretches back over 2,000 years. The region is known for its indigenous grape varieties that thrive in the mild climate and fertile soil. Its two signature wines are Malvazija Istarska and Teran. It was a highly satisfying experience—not only for Tomo to return to feel at home in his birth country, but to show Maffei the possibilities that can be introduced to Verace and its clients, and also visiting the wineries they’ve already established a relationship with.
Malvazija Istarska is a refreshing white wine with fruity and floral notes, perfect for pairing with seafood and light dishes. Teran stands out as a robust red wine with bold tannins and flavours of dark berries and spices, making it a great match for hearty meat dishes.
Verace currently offers a selection of Croatian wine, including Coronica and Kabola. While overseas, they toured several wineries—including the aforementioned; some new varieties to offer in the restaurant in the future. “For me, it was great to visit those wineries, because we carry them at the restaurant. They really made me appreciate their products.” They found a particularly great—and uniquely aged—wine, which will be on the wine list in the future.
This variety is aged for one year at a depth of 22 metres under the sea. “It was very fascinating to be there and see how they make it, the vineyard, the soil. It’s nice to have something different to offer to our guests.”
Experiencing regional culinary delights, which can then be reflected on the menu back home, is important to Kovacek: “the wine, the food, to create a memory for people for those who haven’t been to Croatia. It will make you feel like you want to go and visit. To have good food, good wines, the beach, and the sea are amazing. The people are fantastic.”
